LIGHTWEIGHT 25.4mm BICYCLE ALLOY SEATPOST SADDLE STEM 300mm LONG

Product Information

It can be seen from picture 2 that the seatpost is marked as 31.6 mm wide (and 410 mm long), while it really measures only 31.42 mm. This means the seatpost will probably not fit firmly enough to stay in place inside a seat tube meant for 31.6 mm wide seatposts. Always measure! 🙂

Skinnier seatposts are in vogue at the moment for the same reason skinny seatstays are popular: the theory is that they offer greater flex and therefore comfort. If you find any other mistakes, feel free to note them. I try to keep this as correct, and up-to-date as possible. If you don’t have calipers, you’re hard-pressed to get the diameter. An adjustable wrench can be used as calipers, then measure the gap on the wrench. However, it’s almost impossible to distinguish 0.2 mm increments with a tape measure. But measuring the circumference means you only have to distinguish a 0.6 mm difference (because everything is multiplied by 3.14…), which is doable. If you don't feel your bike needs to be any more comfortable, and you're not fussed about 100 grams, then aluminium seems like a smart choice. If you want to drop the weight or add some cushion, look to spend more.It is easiest to measure the existing seatpost outer diameter – if there is a well-fitting seatpost on the bike. In case there’s no seatpost, we would need to measure the seat-tube’s inner diameter (using calipers, and minding to measure the tube itself, not the seat-clamp’s inner diameter). I’ve only gotten four or five rides in with the new Thudbuster, but I’m quite impressed. The redesigned seat clamp is fantastic, and I found the new elastomer system to work very well. Unlike some of the softer, coil-sprung posts, the new Thudbuster offers a nice mix of chatter dampening and medium-hit suspension to take the edge off of sharper bumps. And, it doesn’t feel as if it has as much of an effect on pedaling efficiency as other, longer travel posts do. while going a bit too wide would call for some more grinding – but it’s probably a safer way to go (“measure three times, cut once” is a local saying).

All that said, I personally prefer the two elastomer-based suspension posts I’ve tried. Similar to a well-tuned suspension fork, the elastomer posts seem to settle into their travel instead of being squishy and active all the time. As such, they provide more support off the top, and only become active when pushed (or when bumped). I spent a lot of time on the eeSilk, which is the most minimal, of course, and provides the least amount of cushion. But I also liked the new 4th gen Thudbuster and will be curious to see how the elastomer holds up over time.

Suspension Seatposts Wrap Up

But bikes and bike parts are more than just functional items. We’re drawn to bicycles and components that not only appear to fit our performance criteria but also our eye. Enve makes lovely looking parts, including this seatpost, that no doubt provide joy to those who shell out their hard-earned cash for them. And in the end, it’s hard to argue against that. Specs Measuring the circumference of the post and dividing by Pi is a good method. There are even circumference tape measures to do it.

Reviewing bike parts is somewhat subjective. So to better try and evaluate the performance of the Enve seatpost, I swapped in another expensive carbon seatpost by way of comparison. I did this again with a high-end aluminium model. A more modern trend, mostly on mountain bikes, where stronger seatposts are required (without too much extra weight) led to a new “oversized” standard of 27.4 mm (and wider). When engaged, the suspension linkage compresses a steel spring inside the post’s column that’s sandwiched in between two plastic spacers. All of these innards are compressed against a hollow plastic pipe that seats against a threaded preload screw at the bottom of the post. Redshift also includes a smaller, secondary internal spring to provide additional firmness, depending on your desired ride feel. The photo sequence above shows me sitting on it set up out of the box—main spring only, with preload somewhere in the middle—with its sag affected by only my weight (about 175lbs).

Locally (in Novi Sad), I can source 25.4 mm seatposts, but of poor quality – the clamp has very coarse saddle angle adjustment, so depending on the seat tube angle, the saddle can end up being either too much upwards, or downwards tilted (if you know what I mean). hand market (and local bike shops) is where I’d look. With a wallet in one hand, and accurate & precise callipers in the other. 🙂

Don’t punch it in. If it can’t be eased in by hand, it’s probably too wide. Forcing it in makes it very, very difficult to move or take out later. It might even damage some frames. The results were as I might have expected. All the posts performed really well. All of them helped reduce chatter. The carbon posts had a little more ‘give’ in them. But ultimately it would be tough to say that any of them outperformed the other by any serious margin. Value How to measure the seatpost diameter? The easiest and most accurate method is to use calipers (Vernier, or digital), as shown in picture 2. Measuring seatpost diameter using calipers.

Tell us how tall you are, we'll help you find the right size.

Method 1: if the frame already has a mounted matching seatpost – one that attaches firmly enough so it doesn’t slide, while being narrow enough to allow easy mounting and dismounting – then it is sufficient to measure its outer diameter, as was explained above in the section –“How to measure the seatpost diameter?”. As is consistently the case, aluminium is perfectly adequate and will do the job. Carbon seatposts, however, offer greater dampening from road vibrations and are lighter. Rear lights can be a bit of an issue when it comes to an aero post, although many brands now offer adaptors that allow for the shape.