Everbuild Tecnic Puraflex 40 High Modulus PU Sealant and Adhesive, White, 300 ml

Product Information

We've even created a beautiful acronym for you to remember: 'SFCSS' (pronounced; Suu-Fuu-Cissss). See, if that's not catchy enough for you then I don't know what is! Terms Explained My next question is, can you reinforce that area underneath with support? It's about investigating why this has occurred. As that area will get heavy rainfall it needs to be well sealed.

It looked great for a few weeks but then the planks dried and swelled etc and it popped the sealant. The sealant wasn't to blame here, the problem was there was a great deal of water getting in through the topsides of the boat. Delamination, leaky fittings and windows resulted in water pouring on the inside of the hull like a waterfall. As the boat was out of the water the planks were dry on the outside and taking a hammering of UV but wet on the inside. The new owner renewed the caulking, dropped it in the water and the problem seems to have been solved. I have since borrowed and cruised it and noticed no water ingress now that planks have swollen. UniBond FlexTec FT101 is a one component hybrid polymer which can be used to seal, fill and bond. It claims to be able to bond without the use of a primer to a wide range of materials but doesn't specify which ones it does not. It can also be applied on both damp and wet surfaces but does take 24hours to set and may not ideal for fast same day repairs. Here is the link to the datasheet for Aquaseal – http://www.everbuild.co.uk/image/data/Tech%20Sealants/mSEAL%20595%20Tech%20Datasheet%20Rev.%202.pdf Everbuild Stix-All is a one component adhesive sealant utilising the best elements of silicone and polyurethane technologies to create a hybrid. It hasn't been designed for marine use specifically but It is compatible for adhering with most the common materials and can be applied on both damp and wet surfaces. It will bond to metals, plastics, glass, concrete, plasterboard, plaster, polyester, perspex, glass, wood, enamel, painted surfaces and GRP. You need good mechanical adehsion with flex. Look at the datasheet for Sikaflex 291i. You don’t want to use the 3M products as the hose at some point will need replacing.

Everbuild Tecnic Puraflex 40 300ml

My memory of the MSDS data is that OB1 was essentially the same as CT1 apart from an additional component. I can't remember what it was but did write that I thought it likely to enhance cross-linking to either speed up setting time or strength of the material, probably both (by promoting formation of urethane links). Compatibility - will it work with your material you wish to bond it too? Will it be safe for below the waterline? Serviceability - how easily will I be able to remove and replace the sealant, how long does it take to set? Hi Rich, If you are using aluminium frames then essentially the sealant will only need to be used to create a gasket. There is my opinion is no need to have a good adhesion if the window is held tight by rivets or bolts and a frame. Aquaseal mSEAL has been known to work well for this purpose and Geocel Marine Rubber Silicone is something I have personally used with good results.

Remove all of the sealant taking care not to damage the glass or frames, using a sharp knife. Tape the window and frames up using frog tape or blue painters tape then apply the sealant in even smooth beads. aluminium, polyester, glass, uPVC, stone, ceramics and more. Use Puraflex 40 in sealing and bonding applications subject Before application, please ensure all surfaces are clean, dry and dust-free before using Everbuild Puraflex 40. All old sealant and mastic joints should be removed before application. In addition to that, when using on glass, metal and aluminium, areas should be cleaned using a solvent cleaner before application for optimum adhesion. When using with solvents, always ensure adequate ventilation. Avoid heat, sparks and open flames. Observe and follow all precautions listed on the solvent container label. It is not recommended for application to surfaces that are below 5˚C as it is impossible to guarantee a dry, frost-free surface at these temperatures. Therefore the sealant will most likely fail. It is unlikely that priming will be required; however, concrete must be sealed using a Primer. After that, if you are in doubt, consult Technical Services. I’m trying to visualise the issue, the swaging makes it a little more difficult. I’m not entirely, sure how any tube simply put through and hole will have a good seal. For a gasket to work you really need tension pushing outwards from the ID to seal. rubber changes over time, due to the elements and exposure.A favourite amongst boating enthusiasts CT1 is suitable as a universal adhesive and will work in all applications. CT1 has no shrinkage and can be applied in both damp and wet conditions. It adheres to most metals (including lead) as well as glass, mirrors, wood, polystyrene and GRP. Sealants were originally designed to patch holes in planes during the war but since then they've got a lot more complicated. Corporate competition means companies are continuously trying to outdo each other. The marine industry is constantly screaming out for products that last longer and perform better and subsequently, we are fed increasingly better sealants. A lot of companies who create sealants eventually wise up to the fact that their product will work in the 'marine' industry, and often subtly add it to their datasheet without it being a specific marine product and liable for leisure tax.